Crossing the Kei: The Famous Pontoon Ferry of Kei Mouth

No visit to Kei Mouth is complete without at least one trip across the Great Kei River on the famous pontoon. The trip couldn’t be easier – simply drive your vehicle onto the ferry and let the operators take care of the rest. Of course, crossing the Great Kei wasn’t always this easy and the story of how people navigated this formidable barrier is as long and meandering as the river itself. 

The Great Kei River: A Historical Boundary

The Great Kei River forms a daunting natural boundary that has historical as well as geographical significance. Its name dates back to 1752 and is based on the Khoisan word for ‘sand,’ possibly due to the predominance of sandstone in the Great Kei catchment area. 

The first documented crossing of the Great Kei occurred in 1752 when Ensign August Frederik Beutler led an expedition into lands “hitherto unknown.” Beutler’s expedition began in Mossel Bay and although he only made it as far as Butterworth, he still goes down in history as being the first to successfully negotiate the Great Kei River. 

Following existing game paths, Beutler arrived at the river at what William Martinson, chairman of the Border Historical Society, says “is assumed to be the old Kei Drift.” This drift was located on what was to become the main wagon route from Komgha to Butterworth, not far from where the N2 now crosses the river at Kei Cuttings. 

An Evolution of River Crossings

For many years, this was the only way to cross the Kei River, except by boat and it wasn’t until 1877 that the first wagon bridge offered an easier alternative. This temporary timber bridge lasted only a couple of years before a flood washed it away, and several replacements were constructed between 1879 and 1977 when the existing bridge was built for SANRAL. 

While this made crossing the river much easier, it still involved a considerable detour for those wanting to access what was then the Transkei homeland from the South African side of the river. For many years, the only way across the mouth of the river was by a somewhat precarious row boat operated by Sonny Taylor. 

The Birth of the Modern Ferry Service

In the early 1980s, the local community clubbed together to buy a small motorboat, which made crossing the Kei slightly safer and considerably quicker.   

This arrangement continued until 1990 when three local men, Andrew Baisley, Peter Myburg, and Graham Roebert, formed a partnership and launched the first pontoon ferry. While that ferry has been replaced numerous times since its first launch, the design remains largely the same.

Like the other two car-transporting ferries in South Africa, the pontoon ferry at Kei Mouth consists of a sturdy platform supported by airtight chambers known as pontoons. These chambers provide the buoyancy needed to support the weight of the deck structure and the vehicles being transported. 

A Look At South Africa’s Remaining Pontoon Ferries

While some pontoon ferries are guided across the water by cables or pulleys, the three ferries still operating within South Africa are all self-propelled. The Sendelingsdrift pontoon ferry, which crosses the Orange River between South Africa and Namibia, is also motorized but uses tethers on a high rope to guide it, unlike the Kei River ferry which operates without such guidance.

The only other car-transporting ferry in South Africa is located in Malgas. It was recently upgraded from a hand-operated pontoon to a motorized version, reopening in 2020 to provide an alternative route across the Breede River. When the ferry is closed, which occasionally happens for safety reasons, the only alternative is a time-consuming 90 km detour.

Travellers wishing to cross the Great Kei have an even greater detour should the ferry be closed, being forced to take the R349 back to the N2 and drive through Butterworth before dropping back down to the coast. Fortunately, the Kei Mouth ferry operates 365 days a year, closing only when extreme conditions jeopardize the safety of the ferry and people onboard.

Behind the Scenes of the Kei Mouth Ferry 

Over the years, the owners and operators of the Kei Mouth ferry have improved their safety standards, introducing wheel stops to prevent vehicles from moving once onboard.

Arguably the busiest car-transporting ferry operation in South Africa, there are now three operational ferries in Kei Mouth, all of which are in operation during peak holiday seasons. 

In addition to transporting vehicles, the Kei Mouth ferry is also no stranger to either cows or horses, with Wild Coast Horse Trails utilising the service frequently to ferry horses and their international riders up and down the coast. 

The ferry not only puts Kei Mouth on the map but also serves as a vital link for local communities and tourists, providing a unique and historical experience.

Conclusion: A River Crossing Rich in History and Adventure

Today, this iconic ferry does more than just transport vehicles and passengers across a river. It connects communities, facilitates tourism, and keeps alive a piece of South African history. Whether you’re a local resident making a routine trip or a tourist seeking adventure, the Kei Mouth Ferry offers a unique experience that blends the past with the present.

The Kei Mouth ferry reminds us that sometimes, the journey itself can be as meaningful as the destination.

For daily updates on the ferry’s operating hours and river conditions, please visit the Kei Mouth Ferry Facebook page.